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THE IMPERIAL 



Macrame Lace Book. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS. 



FLAX THREADS. 



BARBOUR BROTHERS, 



No. 134 CHURCH STREET, 



NEW YORK. (P .jMM,j^: 

y \\ c. T .CSC— • 




W. MARTIN, Printer, 47 Murray Street, N. Y. 
1877. 



i 



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f' 



r"? 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in tiie "i'ef.r Wl', 
by BARBOUR BROTHERS, 
at the office of tlie Librarian of congress, at Washington, D. C. 



INTM OB UCTION 




iM introducing this work on Macrame Lace, we are acting 
in compliance with the wishes of our numerous friends, 
who are desirous of seeing a fuller development of this 
interesting study. The subject of Macrane, so well known in ancient 
times, is now so much in favor that it has already found its way 
into the principal Courts of Europe, and we take this method of 
introducing it to the Ladies of America, befieving they will find it 
a fascinating yet simple study. 

It is remarkable that this knotted Lace, Macrame, in spile of its 
ancient date, should have heen generally unknown in this countrv, 
until we had the honor and privilege of introducing it. Its history 
goes back to a very early date. Knotted threads in the most 
ingenious and varied designs may be seen in the pattern books of 
Tagliente and II Spechio, between 1530 and 1550. 

We have no doubt that as soon as the subject of this beauiiful 
art is understood, it will be taken up and developed by all true 
lovers of Lace work. 

BARBOUR BROTHERS, 
134 Church St., New York: 153 Franklin St., Boston, 
119 Pine Street, San Francisco. 



HILDEN MILLS, BARBOUR FLAX SP'G CO. 

Litibuni, Ireland. Pater sov, y. J. 




TRADE MARK. 
(From the New York Journal of Commerce, April 9th, 1S7T.) 

A TRIUMPH 



BARBOUR FLAX SPINNING CO, 

(BARBOUR BROTHERS.) 



The Pliiladelpliia Exhilntion will long be looked upon as 
the greatest study ever offered to the world. It would seem 
that the United States desired to unite, in this manifestation 
of the lirst centenary of their existence, everything relating to 
industrial genius and scientific and mechanical progress, and 
they thus displayed to the eyes of the civilized world so com- 



l>lete a proof of their vitality that it called forth the admira- 
tion of both American and foreign visitors. 

The French Government, fully alive to this pi'ogress and 
tlie benefit which might result to our industry by a study of 
the different branches of manufacture, sent index^endently of 
the delegation of intelligent workmen, and their most experi- 
enced experts to especially examine the spinning industry 
in this country. 

For some years j^ast our European markets have suffered 
from a decreased exportation to the United States, and this, 
naturally, has aroused the attention of our French Govern- 
ment. Our celebrated delegate, Mr, Louis Chatel, many of 
whose observations relating to spinning and weaving in this 
country we have already reported, expresses himself in the 
following terms regarding the Linen Threads exhibited by the 
house of Messrs. Bakbour Brothers, of 134 Church Street, 
New York. 

{Translated frotn the Reports for the French Government.) 

MeSSl-S. DK MONTAtSVILLK AND E. StEBNHEIH : 

Gentlkmen :— You request of me informatlou concerniug those products whose technical 
value merits to be sigualized iu your work of reports to our Government. 

On examining the threads and yarns exhibited by Messrs. Barbour Brothers, of New York, 
the reduction of our exports iu these fabrics is explained to me. The perfection in the regu- 
larity of tlieir threads is unapproachable, in whatever color they may be dyed. 

The raw material used by them Is the best ?:uropean flax, and even in those colors in 
which the chemical nature of the coloring matter often deteriorates the textile fibre, I have 
found an extreme reslstence of tension. Wc do not make a better article either in Ireland, 
or in Scotland, or in France. 

Please to receive my sincere, etc. 

(Signed,) LOl'IS CHATEL. 

Member of the French Commission, Philadelphia Exhibition. 

It was in consequence of this favorable report that we de- 
sired to inform ourselves of the importance of this establish- 
ment. But, before entering into details, let us take a general 
view of this industry and of the causes of its development in 
this country. 

Those industries which are employed in the transformation 



of textile substances into thread or woven fabrics constitute 
one of the most important revenues of modern times. For a 
great number of years, and up to a recent period, they fol- 
lowing a progressive development side by side with other 
manufacturing productions of prime necessity. Less than 
fifty years ago * the amount of such goods required in 
the United States could be easily ascertained in advance, 
since the result was dependent on a population, the consump- 
tion by whom was, we may almost say, foreseen, and on means 
of manufacture which were well ascertained and limited. 

Since that time these conditions have been materially al- 
tered, for motive powers, called into being by the inventive 
genius of Americans, have been produced. For the present 
we will confine ourselves to those causes which have reference 
solely to the progress made in the manufacture of linen threads 
for shoemakers and other purposes. We will cite the inven- 
tion of the sewing machine, which, among its innumerable 
applications, is to-day the great agent in the rapid manufac- 
ture of boots and shoes, and in other work of a similar nature. 
These machines necessitate the use of a thread which Is not 
only strong, but is above all, even in quality. Hence the de- 
velopment of the industry of linen threads, of which the 
Messrs. Barbour Brothers are the most important and the 
best manufacturers in the United States. 

The name of Barbour is one of the oldest and best known 
in the linen trade of Belfast, Ireland. It was in 1864, that 
Messrs. Barbour Brothers laid the first foundation of their 
establishment in the United States, which now occupies sev- 
eral acres of ground at Paterson, New Jersey, where they 
have several buildings, giving employment to six hundred 
work people. But those having become insufficient, they have 
now in progress of construction, and nearly finished, addition- 
al works on a larger scale, and w^hen these are completed 
they will employ one thousand work people. 

This establishment, as a whole, presents a mechanical com- 



pleteness wliicli is unrivalled. The spinning rooms contain 
ten tlionsand spindles. The machinery is driven by an engine 
of five hundred horse power. The work rooms, which are 
large and well ventilated, are constructed in accordance with 
the best hygienic principles, in view of the large number of 
work peoi^le here congregated. This essential point reflects 
gi'eat credit on the principals of this establishment. Not only 
have they had every consideration for the comfort of their 
employees, but the wages are, relatively higher than those 
paid to our work people in Europe. 

These gentlemen buy their raw material in Ireland, France, 
Belgium and Germany. Tlie first preparations which flax and 
hemp undergo are partly agricultural and partly manufac- 
turing; but they are imported here in bales, ready for spin- 
ning. The orders for these linen threads, which are received, 
from all x^arts of the United States, Mexico, China and else- 
where, are all transmitted to the offices of these gentlemen in 
Church Street, New York. 

We do not doubt that Messrs. Barbour Brothers will send 
in conjunction with their Belfast house, sj)ecimens of their 
manufactures to our Exjiosition of Paris in 1878. They Avill 
receive a confirmation of the value of their products and of 
the high appreciation in which they were held by the jury of 
Philadelx^hia and by our own experts. 

L. C. DE MONTAi:XVILLE AIS^D E. StERNHEIM. 

Originators of the visits to the works and factories on behalf 
of the Official Delegation of "Workmen from the French 
Government. 




MATERIALS FOR MACRAME LACE 



AND INSTRUCTIONS. 



=*S^«?== ^^^isJ^^ttD 



'S^j«?=?:52:ES?'^^^^^>::§>'=' 




N oblong cushion is required, which must be heavy. 
These look prettiest when made of some bright color, 
either blue or scarlet, and are best made of silk or 
Cashmere. The cushion rests on a small table. Two 
sizes of German pins are also required. The larger size is for pin- 
ning on the straight lines at both ends of the cushion, and the 
small ones are used for putting between the threads on the top line 
to keep them apart, and fasten the work on to the cushion. 

The straight lines may be cut the length of the lace required, and 
should always be double threads ; but if cut too short for the pur- 
pose, fresh threads may be joined to those, by tying them together 
with a weaver's knot. The threads for working should be cut to 
the exact size given with each pattern ; but when the required 
length is not known, cut the threads a good bit longer than is neces- 
sary, and work out one scollop. Then measure how much the 
fringe is deeper than required, and cut the next threads shorter by 
so much. The coarse Italian twine is used in making the lace> 
when intended for furniture, and the finer twine and linen thread. 



of various sizes for dress trimmings and altar linen. The lace is 
peculiarly adapted to this latter purpose. The lace also looks 
beautiful when made of Maltese silk, either in black or bright 
colors. 

The lace is made by knotting threads together. One thread is 
held firmly over the other as leader, and each single thread is 
knotted twice on to it. When a leaf is worked from right to left, 
the leader is held in the left hand, and when a leaf is worked from 
left to right, the leader is held in the right hand. Pin on as many 
straight lines as are required for the pattern. 

In commencing a pattern, fasten the threads for working on to 
the top line as follows :--Pass the two ends of each thread under 
the line, pointing them up, then draw them back through the loop, 
repeat to the end of the cushion then put in a pin between every 
four threads, then loosen the second line, hold it firmly in the right 
hand and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. The 
straight lines are always worked in this way. The Lace as a rule 
should be worked tightly, as it adds much to its beauty and durability. 

No. 1. 



A, — Single Chain. 

Take two threads, hold one straight in the left hand, knot the 
other thread on to it once with the right hand ; hold this thread 
straight in the right hand and knot the other on to it with the left. 
JRepeat. 



No. 1. 



^^^B 


^H ^^1 ^1 


ll^l^ll 


1 



B, — DomMe Chain. 

This is made in the same way as the single chain, but with four 
threads, using two thread; each time instead of one. 



C. — Open Chain, 

Take four threads commence with the two at the left side, hold 
the first of these in tie right hand as leader, knot the second twice 
on to it with the left hand, pass the same leader to the left hand, 
knot the same thread as before twice on to it ; take the next two 
threads, hold the first thread in the right hand as leader, knot the 
second thread twice on to it, pass the leader to the left hand, knot the 
same thread as before twice on to it, hold the leader still in the left 
hand and knot the first leader twice on to it with the right hand ; 
knot the remaining thread at the left side twice on to it, leaving a 
loop before drawing it up tight.* Pass the same leader back to the 
right hand, and knot the same thread twice on to it with the left 
hand. Then take up the two threads at the right side, hold the 
under one in the right hand, as leader, knot the other thread twice 
on to it leaving a loop as before. Pass the same leader to the left 
hand, and knot the same thread twice on to it. Hold the leader still 
in the left hand and knot the leader at the left side twice on to it ; 

* It would be well to observe that. In making this open chain, after the loops 
are made, the leader is always passed into the other hand, and the thread knotted 
twice on to It. 



6 

knot the remaining thread at the left side on to it, leaving a loop as 
before. Then pass the leader back to the right hand, and knot 
same thread twice on to it. Repeat from * on preceding page. 



1>, — Solomon^ s Knots,, 

Take four threads, hold the two centre ones straight; pass the 
thread at left side loosely over these. Take the thread at right 
side, pass it over the first thread and under the centre ones and up 
through the loop at left side ; draw it up tight. Then take the right- 
hand thread, pass it over the two centre ones loosely, take the left 
thread, pass it over this, under the centre ones, and up through the 
loop at the right side; draw it up tight to meet the first part of the 
knot. This forms one Solomon's Knot. 



E,—Maised Picoi. 

The Raised Picot mostly comes between two leaves. Take the 
four centre threads — two from each leaf — hold the two centre ones 
straight and make six Solomon's knots on to them ; pass the two 
centre threads down through the opening between the two leaves; 
take one of these threads and knot it once to the thread at the left 
side, take up the other and knot it once to the remaining thread at 
the riz fit side. 



No. 2. 




No. 2. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and two inches long.) 



Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, then fasten on the 
threads to the top line, after which loosen the second line, and 
knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Make a row of 
Solomon's knots thus: — Take four threads; hold the two centre ones 
straight, pass the thread at the left side over them loosely, then pass 
the thread at the right side over this, under the two centre ones, and 
up through the loop at the left side ; draw it up tight. Then pass 
the right thread over the tAai centre ones, pass the left thread over 
this, under the two centre ones, and up through the loop at the right 
side, draw it up tight to meet the first part of the knot. Repeat to 
the end of cushion. Then loosen the third line, hold it in the right 
hand, and knot each thread twice on tc it with the left. 

First Oval.— *Take eight threads ; divide them into two parts. 
Begin by holding the fourth thread in the left hand as leader, and 
knot each of the three threads twice on to it with the right ; then 
take the next four threads, hold the first of these in the right hand 
as leader and knot the three threads on to it with the left hand; 
then take the two centre threads from each side and make a Solo- 
mon's knot ; then take the first leader, hold it in the right hand, and 
knot the three threads on to it ; then take the second leader, hold it 
in the left hand, and knot the seven threads on to it with the right 
hand. Then divide the eight threads : take the four at the right side, 
hold the first (at the left side) in the right hand, knot the three threads 
on to it with the left hand ; then take the two centre threads from 
each side and make a Solomon's knot ; then take the leader at the 



8 

right side, hold it in the left hand, knot three threads on to it; then 
take the leader at the left side, hold it in the right hand, and knot 
the remaining three threads on to it with the left hand. Repeat from 
* to the end of cushion. Then loosen the fourth line, hold it in the 
right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. 
Repeat this to the end of the cushion ; and for the scollop, take eight 
threads and repeat from* six times. Then take the top leader from 
the second oval, hold it in the left hand, and knot the four threads of 
the first oval on to it with the right hand; then take the top thread 
at the left side, hold it in the right hand, and knot the three threads 
of the second oval on to it. Then make a Solomon's knot in the 
middle with the four centre threads; then take the leader at the left 
side, hold it in the right hand, and knot three threads on to it with 
the left ; then take the leader at the right side, hold it in the left hand^ 
and knot the four threads on to it with the right. Repeat until there 
are five small ovals ; then make four under these in the same way, 
and three under the four — and so on — to form the scollop, until it 
comes to one. If preferred, the fringe may then be knotted, which 
gives it a rich effect.--See No. 4 Pattern. 



No, 3. 

(ThreJds for this Pattern one yard three irches long. 



Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, after which fasten on- 
the threads thus :--Pass the tw^o ends of each thread under the top 
line, pointing them up, then bring them through the loop, then loosen 
the second line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice 
on ;o it with the left hand. Then take two threads : hold the first in. 



No. 3. 




9 

• 

the left hand, knot the other three times on to it with the right 
hand ; repeat this to the end of the cushion. Then take one thread 
from each : hold one in the right hand, and knot the other on to it 
with the left hand ; repeat to end of cushion. Then loosen the 
third line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and knot each 
thread twice on to it with the left hand. * Take the first six threads^ 
hold the first thread in the right hand as leader, knot the five threads 
on to it with the left hand, each thread twice ; then make the second 
row of the leaf thus : — Hold the first thread at the left side again in 
the right hand, knot each of the five threads twice on to it with the 
left hand ; then take the next six threads, hold the sixth thread in the 
left hand as leader, and knot each of the five threads twice on to it 
with the right hand; then make the second row of the leaf by hold- 
ing the sixth thread again in the left hand and knotting each of the 
five threads on to it with the right ; then hold the same thread as 
leader in the left hand, and knot the leader of the first leaf twice on 
to it ; then make third leaf, hold the same leader still in the left 
hand, and knot the threads on to it with the right hand ; then take 
the six threads and repeat for a second line ; then take the six threads 
at the right side, hold the first of these (that is the left side one) in 
the right hand and make the fourth leaf, knotting the threads on 
with the left hand ; repeat for the second line ; repeat from * to the 
end of the cushion ; then loosen the fourth line, and knot each 
thread twice on to it in the usual way. 

*For Ihe Scollop.— Take eight threads, divide them into two 
parts ; take the first four threads, hold the first thread in the right 
hand, and knot the three threads on to it with the left hand. Second 
Row of Leaf . — ':j'ake the first thread again, hold it in the right 
hand and knot the three threads on with the left hand; then take the 



10 

• 

next four threads, hold the fourth thread as leader in the feft hand, 
and knot each of the three threads on to it with the right. Make 
the second row of the leaf in the same way ; hold the leader still in 
the left hand, and join the two leaves by knotting the leader of the 
first leaf twice on to it. Repeat from * six times, then reduce it one 
in each row until the point is formed according to the engraving; 
then join the two leaders of the leaves at the point ; then take the 
first thread at the left side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and 
knot each thread three times on to it down the side of the scollop 
to form a continuous line; then take the thread at right side of the 
scollop, hold it in the left hand, and knot each thread three times on 
to it with the right hand ; then join the two leaders by holding one 
tight and knotting the other twice on to it ; then take the first thread 
again at the left side and make a second line, after which take the 
first thread at the right side, hold it in the left hand and make a 
second line; repeat at each side to form a third line. The leader is 
always held at the top, and the threads underneath, after which the 
threads are all held back, fastened down with a needle and thread 
on the wrong side, and then cut close. 



No. 4. 

(Threads forthis Pattern to be one yard long) 



Commence by pinning on the straight lines in the usual way, after 
which fasten on the threads for working, to the top or first line. 
Pass the two ends of each thread under the line, pointing them up, 
then draw them through the loop ; then loosen the second line at 
the right side, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. 



No. i. 




11 

Then make a row of Solomon's knots with every four threads to the 
end, after which loosen the third line, and knot the threads on to it 
as before. Then take four threads and make three Solomon's knots 
with them. Repeat to the end of the cushion. Then loosen the 
fourth line, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand 
as before; then take the first four threads, hold the first of these in 
the right hand as leader at the top, and knot the three threads on to 
it with the left (each thread twice) ; then pass the same leader to the 
left hand, and knot each of the three threads on to it with the right. 
Repeat this five times. Then make two more chains, exactly the 
same as last. Then take six threads: hold the first in the right hand 
as leader (the leader should always be at top, and the threads under- 
neath), and make a leaf of two rows; then take the next six threads, 
hold the one at the right side in the left hand as leader, and make a 
leaf of two rows ; then take the two centre threads of each leaf, and 
with them make a row of six Solomon's knots ; then pass the two 
centre threads- of these four between the two leaves, pointing them 
down, and knot these threads to the other two, to form the raised 
Picot. Then take the centre thread at the left side, hold it in the 
left hand as leader, and knot the threads on with the right hand, to 
make the lower leaf at the left side (two rows); then take the centre 
thread at the right side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and make 
the lower leaf at the right side; then make three more chains, and 
then another star of four leaves, with raised Picot in the centre. 
Repeat to the end of cushion. Loosen the fifth line, and knot each 
thread twice on to it, as before. Take four threads, make three 
Solomon's knots with these. Repeat to the end of cushion. Loosen 
the sixth line, and knot each thread twice on to it as before; then 
make a row of Solomon's knots with every four threads ; then loosen 
the seventh line and knot each thread twice on to it, as before. 



12 

To finish off the Insertion. --Keep the last line pinned on 
at both ends ; take two threads, draw the second one up under the 
line in a loop, pass the ends of both threads through this loop, draw 
them up tight, to form a knot, same as the one at the top line. The 
the two threads will now be in front,, between the two last lines. Pass 
these threads to the back, one at each side of the knot, tie them firmly 
together at the back ; sew these threads neatly to the work, on the 
wrong side, with a needle and thread. Repeat to the end of cushion, 
and then cut the threads close. 



No. o. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and four inches long. 



Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, and fasten on the 
threads for working as described in the former patterns. Loosen 
the second line, and knot each thread twice on to it to the end of 
the cushion. Take the first four threads, hold three in the right 
hand and knot the first thread twice over them with the left hand ; 
repeat to the end of the cushion. Loosen the third line, and knot 
each thread twice on to it as usual. * Take eight threads, hold the 
first as leader in the right hand, and knot each of the seven threads 
twice on to it with the left hand; then divide these eight threads 
into two parts: take the first four of these threads, hold three in the 
left hand, and knot the tburth thread twice over them with the right 
hand: do the same to the next four threads: then take the first of 
these threads, hold it in the right hand and knot each of the seven 
threads twice on to it with the left hand. The second and third 
leaves are made in the same way. Fourth Zc-(7/--Take the eighth 



No. 5. 
liiipi qiBHiiiPiiiiiiiiJiimiiip i ff igijigii 




14 

knotted sixteen times, increase two in each to the centre ; then 
begin at the left side, take up the sixteen threads, leave out two of 
them, hold the next thread in the right hand as leader,- and knot 
each thread twice on to it ; also knot on the two threads of the first 
single chain to it ; then repeat the knotting up of every four threads 
after which make another long line, leaving out the two first threads, 
and knotting on the two threads of the second chain ; repeat this 
until there are five long rows ; then leave out. four threads in the 
two following rows ; then make a row with eight threads, and to 
finish the end of the scollop make four close lines according to the 
engravings. Repeat for the right hand side of the scollop, holding 
the leaders in the left hand, and knotting the threads on with the 
right hand. The last three rows at the end of scollop are joined 
together, the threads are then knotted to make a knotted fringe. 



No. 6. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and three quarters long.) 



Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, and fasten the threads 
for working on to the top line ; then loosen the second line, hold it 
in the right hand, and knct each thread twice on to it. Take the 
first four threads, make three Soloman's knots with them ; repeat to 
the end of the cushion. Take the fourth * row of Solomon's knots, 
divide the four threads into two parts, make five single chains with 
the two first threads, and eight single chains with the other two 
threads; then take the eighth row of Solomon's knots, and make six 
single chains with each two threads. Take the first thread at the left 
side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and|[knot eleven threads on 



No. 6. 




f • 



15 

to it ; then pass the leader to the left hand, and knot the same threads 
on to it with the right hand ; then pass the same leader back to the 
right hand, and knot the threads on to it with the left, also the two 
threads of the first single chain. Pass the leader again to the left 
hand, and knot the threads on to it with the right ; pass the leader 
back to the right hand, and knot the same threads on to it with the 
left, leaving out the two last threads, which are to be knotted in 
single chain six times ; then pass the leader to the left hand, and 
knot the same threads on to it with the right. Divide these threads 
into six parts, and make eight single chains with every two threads. 
Commence at the seventh row of Solomon's knots; take the thread 
at the right side, hold it in the left hand, and knot eleven threads on 
to it with the right hand. Divide those twelve threads into six parts, 
and make two single chains with every two threads. Then pass the 
thread at the left side to the right hand, and knot each thread twice 
on to it with the left hand, and also the two threads of the next 
single chain. Then make another row of single chain. Then pass 
the same leader back to the left hand, and knot each thread twice on 
to it, also the threads of the second chain ; pass the same leader to 
the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left ; 
repeat from * to the end of the cushion. Take the two threads at 
each end of the centre pattern, and make six single chains on each. 
Make two Solomon's knots with the eight middle threads; make 
a Solomon's knot under these, taking two threads from each knot ; 
make a Solomon's knot at each side, and then one in the centre, and 
so on, according to the engraving. 

And now, having clearly described the pattern so far, the rest 
may be easily copied from the engraving by any worker who has 
followed the directions to this stage. 



16 

The scollop being composed of leaves, with verj- little variety, 
the instructions for it would be only a repetition of , any of the 
former patterns. 



No. 7. 

(Threads forthis Pattern to be one and a half yards long) 



Pin on the lines in the usual way, after which fasten on the 
threads, for working; then loosen the second line, hold it in the 
right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it witli the left. Take 
four threads, hold the three first ones in the left hand, knot the 
fourth thread three times over them with the right. Repeat to the 
end of cushion. Take two threads from each, hold three in the right 
hand and knot the first thread three times over them with the left. 
Repeat to end of cushion. Then loosen the third line, hold it in the 
right hand, and knot each thread twice over it with the left hand. 
* Take eight threads, make a Solomon's knot with the first four, 
hold the eighth thread in the left hand as leader, and knot each 
thread twice on to it with the right hand, take the eighth thread 
again as leader, and make a second row same as the last ; take the 
next eight lI. ?ads, make a Solomon's knot with the last four, then 
take the first thread, hold it as leader in the right hand, and knot 
each of the seven threads twice on to it with the left hand. Then 
take the eight threads again, and make a second row ; then make 
eight Solomon's knots with those threads. After this, take the first 
thread at the left side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and knot 
each of the seven threads twice on to it with the left hand. Repeat 
for a second line. Then take the thread at the right side, hold it in 



No. 7. 




17 

the left hand as leader, and knot each thread twice on to it. Repeat 
for a second Jine. Take the first four threads, make a Solomon's 
knot the same with last four threads. Then take the next four 
threads, hold two in each hand, and make twelve double chain, 
make two more rows of double chain. Repeat from * to the end 
of cushion. Then loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand 
and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Then take 
the first four threads, and make a Solomon's knot. Repeat to the 
end of cushion. Loosen the fifth line, hold it in the right hand, 
and knot each thread twice on to it with the left. * Take six 
threads, hold the first in the right hand as leader, and knot the five 
threads on to it with the left. Repeat for two more lines. Take 
the next six threads, hold the sixth in the left hand, and knot the 
five threads on to it with the right hand. Repeat for two more 
lines ; then make a raised Picot with the four centre threads, then 
take the centre thread at the left side, hold it in the left hand, and 
knot the five threads on to it. Repeat for two more lines. Take 
the centre thread at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and 
knot the five threads on to it with the left hand. Repeat for two 
more lines ; then take the next four threads, and make a row of 
open chain as described in diagram C, then repeat with the next 
four threads. Repeat from * to the end of cushion. Then loosen 
the sixth line, hold it in left hand, and knot each thread twice on 
to it. Take the first four threads, make a Solomon's knot. Repeat 
to the end of cushion ; loosen the seventh line, hold it in the right 
hand, and knot each thread twice on to it. The next part of the 
insertion is made exactly like the first, and to finish off keep the last 
line pinned on at both ends, take two threads, draw the second one 
up under the line in a loop, then pass the ends of both threads 
through this loop, draw them up tight to form a knot, same as the 



18 



one at the top line ; the two threads will then be in front, between 
the last two lines, pass these threads to the back one at each side 
of the knot, tie the two threads firmly together at the back, sew 
them neatly down on the wrong side, repeat to the end of cushion, 
and cut off the threads close. 



No. 8. 

(Thresds forthis Pattern one yard and nine inches long.) 



Pin on the stright lines or leaders to the cushion ; then fasten on 
the threads to the top line, so:— Take a thread ; pass the two ends 
of it under the line, pointing them up, and then bring them down 
through the loop. Loosen the second leader by taking out the pin 
at the right side, hold it in the right hand and knot each thread 
twice on to it with the left hand. Take the first four threads, and 
with them make three Solomon's knots. (These knots are made 
as follows :— Take four threads, hold the two centre ones straight, 
pass the thread at the left side loosely over these ; then take the 
thread at the right side, pass it over the first thread, under the 
centre ones, and up through the loop at the left side ; draw it up 
tight, then take the right hand thread, pass it over the two centre 
ones loosely ; take the left thread, pass it over this, under the centre 
ones, and up through the loop at the right side, draw it up tight to 
meet the first part of the knot). Repeat to end of the cushion. 
Then loosen the third line by taking out the pin at the right side, 
hold it in right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with 
the left hand. To make the first leaf:— Take eight threads, 
hold the first one in the right hand, over the others, and knot each 



No. 7. 




19 

of the seven threads twice on to it with the left hand. Take the 
first thread again, hold it in the right hand, and knot the threads on 
to it as before. Take the next eight threads, hold the eighth one in 
the left hand, and knot each of the seven threads twice on to it 
with the right hand. Take the eighth thread again, hold it in the 
right hand, and knot the seven threads on to it, as before. Then 
make a raised Picot, so : — Take the two centre threads of each leaf, 
and with these four threads make six Solomon's knots ; then pass 
the two centre threads between the two leaves, pointing them down ; 
then knot each of these threads on the two remaining ones, to fasten 
them ; then take the eighth thread, hold it in the left hand, and knot 
each of the seven threads twice on to it with the right hand ; take 
the eighth thread again, hold it in the left hand, and knot each of the 
seven threads on to it, as before. Then take the next thread to 
make the fourth leaf, hold it in the right hand, knot each of the 
seven threads twice on to it with the left hand ; take up the thread 
again, hold it in the right hand, and knot each of the seven threads 
on to it, as before. This forms the first star. Repeat to end of 
cushion. Loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand, and 
knot each thread on to it with the left hand. 

The Scollop. — As the scollop is made of these stars, it is 
not necessary to describe them further ; and to finish the scollop 
when the stars are all made, take the first thread, hold it in the right 
hand, and knot each thread twice on to it ; but when the stars 
meet, knot two of the threads three times, instead of twice — this 
makes the straight line more even, and joins the stars more com- 
pletely ; then take the first thread 'at the right side of the scollop^ 
hold it in the left hand, and do the same. Repeat at the right side, 
then at the left side; then take the ninth thread at the left side, hold 
it in the right hand, and knot the threads on to it with the left hand. 



20 

Repeat at the right side. Then take the seventeenth thread, hold it 
in the right hand, and knot the remaining threads on to it with the 
left hand. Repeat at the right side, to finish the scollop. 



No. 9. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and eighteen inches long.i 



Pin on three straight lines, and fasten the threads for working on 
to the top line in the usual way ; then take the pin out of the 
second line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and knot 
each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Repeat with the 
third line. Take the first four threads, and with them make four 
Solomon's knots. Repeat to the end of the cushion. Then take 
the first four threads ; hold the fourth in the right hand, and knot 
the first thread of the next four twice on to it ; then take the 
second thread of the second four, hold it in the left hand, and knot 
two threads of the first four on to it; then take the second thread 
of the first four, hold it in the right hand, and knot three threads of 
the second four onto it with the left hand ; then take the third 
thread of the second four, hold it in the left hand, and knot three 
threads of the first four on to it; then take the first thread of the 
first four, hold it in the right hand, and knot the four threads on 
to it ; then take the fourth thread of the second four, hold it in the 
left hand, and knot the four threads on to it from the other side — 
this completes the diamond. Repeat to the end of cushion. 

The scollop is formed by leaving out a diamond in each row, 
until only one diamond remains. 



No. 8. 



^ 




No. 10. 




21 

No. 10. 

(Threads for this Pattern two yards three inches long.^ 



Pin on the straight lines or leaders to the cushion in the usual 
way, then fasten the threads for working on to the top line. Loosen 
the second line at the right side by taking out the pin which con- 
f.nes it to the cushion; hold the leader in the right hand and knot 
each thread twice on to it with the left; take the first four threads, 
hold three in the left hand, and knot the fourth thread three times 
over them with the right hand. Repeat to the end of cushion. 
Then take the first two threads, hold the first in the left hand and 
knot the other three times over it with the right hand ; then take 
the next four tlueads, hold three of them in the left hand, and knot 
the fourth thread three times over them with the right hand. 
Repeat to the end of cushion. Then loosen the third line ; hold it 
in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left;; 
then take the first four threads, make a Solomon's knot. Repeat to 
the end. Take the first two threads and make four single chain, as- 
follows -.—Hold the first fth re ad straight in the left hand, knot the 
other thread on to it with the right hand; then hold this thread 
straight in the right hand, knot the other on to it with the left ; hold 
this thread in the left hand, knot the other on to it with the right ; 
hold this in the right hand, and knot the other on with the left ; 
take the next two threads, do the same, and repeat with every two 
threads to the end of cushion; then miss the first two threads, and 
with the next four threads make a Solomon's knot. Repeat to the 
end. Then loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand and 
knot each thread twice on to it with the left. For the first leaf 



22 

take six threads ; hold the first as leader in the right hand over the 
others, and knot each of the five threads twice on to it with the 
left hand ; then take the first thread again, hold it as before in the 
right hand, and knot each of the five threads twice on to it with the 
left. Repeat for two more rows. This forms the first leaf. For the 
second leaf : — Take six threads ; hold the sixth in the left hand over 
the others, and knot each thread on to it with the right hand. Re- 
peat three more times. Then take the outside thread at each side 
and make a Solomon's knot with these over all the ten threads; then 
divide the twelve threads, and hold the sixth thread in the left hand, 
and knot the other five threads on to it with the right hand. Re- 
peat three times more ; and for the fourth leaf: — Take the first thread 
of the remaining six threads ; hold it in the right hand, and knot 
each of the five threads twice on to it with the left. Repeat three 
times more ; this finishes the star of four leaves. Repeat to the end 
of cushion ; then loosen the fifth line, hold it in the right hand, and 
knot each thread twice on to it with the left. Then take the first 
four threads, make a Solomon's knot. Repeat to the end. Then 
take two threads from each Solomon's knot, and with these make 
four double chain. This is made same as single, only holding two 
threads in each hand instead of one. Then loosen the sixth line 
hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with 
the left ; then take twelve threads, hold the first in the right hand, 
and knot each of the eleven threads on to it with the left. Repeat 
three times more. This forms the first large leaf. Then take the 
next twelve threads ; hold the twelfth in the left hand, and knot each 
of the eleven threads on to it with the right. Repeat three times 
more. This forms the second leaf. Then take the four centre 
threads, and witli tliem make a raised Picot (this is described in 
Pattern No. i) ; then divide these twenty-four threads into two 



23 

parts; hold the twelfth thread in the left hand, and knot each 
thread of the eleventh twice on to it with the right. Repeat three 
times more ; and for the fourth leaf : — Hold the first thread of 
the twelve in the right hand, and knot each of the others twice on 
to it with the left. Repeat three times more. This forms the star 
of four large leaves. Repeat to the end. Loosen the seventh line, 
hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with 
the left. 

To Make the Scollop.— Take six threads ; hold the first 
thread in the right hand, and knot the other five threads twice on to 
it with the left. Repeat three times more. This forms the first leaf. 
Then take the next six threads ; hold the sixth thread in the left 
hand, and knot the other five threads on to it with the right hand. 
Repeat three times more. Join the leaders of both these together, 
by holding one straight, and knot the other twice over it ; then take 
the next six threads, hold the first thread in the right hand, and knot 
each of the five threads twice on to it. Repeat three times more to 
form the leaf. Then take the next six threads, hold the sixth thread 
in the left hand, and knot the others twice on to it with the right. 
Repeat three times more. When this leaf is finished hold the leader 
still in the left hand, and knot six threads twice on to it. Repeat 
three times more to form the leaf. Then take the six threads that 
were used in making the second leaf of the scollop; hold the first 
of these in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with 
the left. Repeat three times more for the leaf. Then join the 
leader of this leaf to the leader of the k^i next to it. Repeat till the 
scollop is completed. 



24 

No. 11. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and twenty-seven inches I ong.) 



Pin on the lines to the cushion in the usual wayj after which 
fasten the threads for working on to the top line. Loosen the second 
line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it 
with the left ; then loosen the next line and do the same. Then * 
take the first four threads, make a Solomon's knot ; then with the 
first two of these threads make four single chain ; with the other 
two threads make three single chain. Then take the next four 
threads, hold the first three of these in the left hand, and knot the 
fourth thread four times over them. Then to make the small Picot, 
make a running knot with the fourth thread, draw it up close to 
the work, then make another knot in the same way, but let it come 
inside the first knot, quite close to the work ; then with the same 
thread make four more knots over the three threads. Then take 
these four threads, and the two threads of the single chain close to 
it, and with the six threads make a Solomon's knot ; then take the 
first four of these, and the two threads of the first single chain, and 
with the six threads make another Solomon's knot ; then take the 
first four of these threads, hold three of them in the right hand, and 
knot the first thread four times over them with the left hand ; then 
make a small Picot ; after which make four more knots with the 
same thread over the three threads ; then take the next four threads, 
make eight knots with those, each knot being the first part of 
the Solomon's knot. This makes a twist. Then take the next four 
threads, and witli them make six knots in the same way. Take 
the next four threads and make eight knots of the same. Then 



No. 11. 




25 

take these twelve threads, hold the ten centre threads together, and 
make a Solomon's knot over them with the two outside threads 
Then take the first four of these threads, make eight knots same as 
before. Take the next four threads, make six knots Take the next 
four threads, make eight of the same knots. Repeat from * to the 
end of cushion. Loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand, 
and knot each thread twice on to it with the left. Loosen the next 
line and do the same. Then take the first four threads, make 
a Solomon's knot ; take the first two of these four threads and make 
six single chain ; take the next two threads, make four chain ; miss 
the next two threads, and with the next four threads make a Solo- 
mon's knot. Then take two of these threads and the two threads 
that were missed, and with them make a Solomon's knot ; then 
make another; then make a small Picot at each side; then make 
another Solomon's knot with the same threads. Then take these 
four threads, and the two threads of the single chain close to it, and 
with the six threads make a Solomon's knot. Then leave out two 
threads at the right side, and make a Solomon's knot with the four 
threads. Then take in the two threads of the first single chain, and 
with the six threads make a Solomon's knot ; then leave out two 
threads at the right side again, and with the four threads make 
a Solomon's knot ; then make a small Picot at each side ; then 
make three more Solomon's knots ; then a small Picot at each side ; 
then another Solomon's knot; then take two of the threads that 
were left out, and with them make four single chain ; then take the 
other two threads and make four single chain; then take the two 
threads left at the top Solomon's knot and the two threads next to it, 
and make a Solomon's knot ; then make another ; then a small 
Picot at each side ; then another Solomon's knot ; then take four 
threads, make a Solomon's knot ; then take the first two of these 



26 

threads, make four single chain ; then make a Solomon's knot with 
these two threads and the four threads next to it ; then leave out 
two threads at the left side, and make a Solomon's knot with the 
four threads ; then with the two top threads make six single chain ; 
then with these two threads, and the four threads close to them, 
make a Solomon's knot ; then take the four threads at the left side, 
and make four single chain with the first two, and six single chain 
with the next two ; then make a Solomon's knot with the four 
threads ; then take two of these threads, and two from the knot at 
the left side of them, and with them make a Solomon's knot ; then 
make a Solomon's knot with the four threads at the left side; then 
make a Solomon's knot with the four threads at the right side ; then 
make a Solomon's knot with the four centre threads : then make a 
Solomon's knot with the four threads at the left side; then make 
four single chain with the first two threads, and four single chain 
with the other two threads ; then make a Solomon's knot with the 
two threads of the first chain and the four threads close to them; 
then with the first two threads at the left side make six chain, and 
make a Solomon's knot with the four threads at the right ; then 
take the two threads of the chain at the right side, and the four 
threads close to them, and with the six threads make a Solomon's 
knot. Take the first two of these threads and make four single 
chain ; then, with these two threads, and the two close to them at 
the right side, make a Solomon's knot. This brings the centre pat- 
tern close to the fifth line ; and when the centre pattern is made to 
the end of cushion, loosen the sixth line, and knot each thread twice 
on to it. Loosen the next line and do the same ; then for the next 
part repeat from *, 

To finish off the Insertion.— Keep the last line pinned 



No. 12. 




on at both ends. Take two threads; draw the second one up under 
the line in a loop ; pass the ends of both threads through this loop ; 
draw them up tight, to form a knot same as the one at the top line. 
The two threads will now be in front between the two last lines ; 
pass these threads to the back one at each side of the knot ; tie them 
firmly together at the back ; sew these threads neatly to the work on 
the wrong side with a needle and thread. Repeat to the end of 
cushion, and then cut the threads close. 



No. 12. 

{Threads for this Pattern twa yards and eighteen inches long.! 



Pin on the lines to the cushion, after which fasten the threads for 

working on to the top line. Loosen the next line, hold it in the 

right hand, and. knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. 

* Take the first three threads ; hold two in the right hand and knot 

the first thread four times over it with the left hand; then leave a 

little loop, so : — put a pin between the last knot, and the one now 

being made ; then make four more knots. Take the next three 

threads ; hold two in the left hand, and knot the fourth thread eight 

times over them with the right hand, leaving a loop in the middle 

same as at the other side. Then to join them, take two threads at 

from each and make one plain knot : then take the three threads at 

the left side, hold two in the right hand and knot the first thread 

eight times over them, leaving the little loop in the middle. Then 

take the other three threads ; hold two in the left hand, knot the 

third thread eight times over them with the right, leaving a loop in 



28 

the middle. Then take the next four threads ; hold the first thread 
in the right hand, knot the three threads over it with the left. Re- 
peat again to make a leaf. Take the next four threads ; hold the 
fourth thread in the left hand, knot the three threads over it with the 
right hand. Repeat again. Hold the same leader still in the left 
hand, and knot the four threads from the left side on to it with the 
right hand. Repeat again. Then take the other four threads ; hold 
the first of them in the right hand, knot the three threads on to it 
with the left hand. Repeat again. Repeat from * to the end of 
cushion. Loosen the third line, hold it in the right hand, knot each 
thread twice on to it with the left hand. Miss the first two threads; 
take the next two threads, make three single chain ; take the next 
two, make four single chain ; take the next two, make six single 
chain ; take the next two, make eight single chain ; take the next 
two threads, make nine single chain. There will now be twelve 
threads. Take the first thread ; hold it in the right hand, and knot 
each of the eleven threads twice on to it with the left hand. Repeat 
for two more rows. Take the first four of these threads ; hold the 
fourth in the left hand, and make a leaf of two rows ; pass the leader 
into the right hand, and make a leaf of two rows. Leave those for 
the present. Take the next two threads of the twelve; make eight 
single chain. Take the next thread of the twelve ; hold it in the 
right hand, and knot each of the iremaining threads on to it with 
the left. This part is left for the present. Take up the next six 
threads ; miss the first two ; with the next two make three single 
chain ; with the next two make five single chain ; then take the 
first of the two that were missed, hold it in the right hand and knot 
each of the five threads on to it with the left. Repeat for two more 
rows. Take the next two threads ; make five single chain ; make 
three single chain with the next two threads. Take t\\»o more 



29 

threads ; hold the second in the left hand, and knot each of the five 
threads on to it with the left. Repeat for two more rows. 

Having described this in detail so far, it is not necessary to 
continue, as it would be only a repetition of the same thing, and at 
this stage it would be calculated more to puzzle the worker. The 
best thing now is to follow the engraving, and when the centre part 
is made, loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand, and knot 
each thread twice on to it with the left hand. 

To. Make the Scollop. — Count off eighteen threads ; this 
will be the centre of scollop. Count off eighteen threads for the 
other side of the scollop. Take the two centre threads at the left 
side, make six single chain ; take the next two at the left side, make 
three chain; take the next two, hold the first in the right hand as 
leader, and knot each of the five threads on to it twice with the left 
hand. Repeat for two more rows. Then with six threads from the 
other side of the scollop do exactly the same, only this time holding 
the leader in the left hand, and knotting the threads on to it with the 
right hand ; join the two leaders together by holding one, and knot- 
ting the other over it twice. Then there will be twelve threads, 
with every two of these make three single chain. Then take up the 
next two threads at the left side ; hold the second thread in the right 
hand, aad knot the first thread twelve times on to it with the left 
hand, leaving a loop in the middle by inserting a pin between the 
threads ; then hold the under thread of those two in the right hand 
as leader, and knot six threads twice on to it with the left. Repeat 
for two more rows. Then take up the two threads at the other side 
of the scollop, and do exactly the same, working towards the centre 
of the scollop. When the third row is made, take four threads at 



30 

the left side ; hold the first in the right hand, knot three threads 
each twice over it ; take four threads at the right side ; hold the 
fourth in the left hand ; knot each thread twice on to it with the right 
hand; join in the middle. Repeat the same at left side. Repeat at 
right side, until there are five rows, all joined in the middle. Take 
the first four threads, hold three in the right hand ; knot the first 
thread ten times over them with the left ; this will form a thick 
strand. Do the same at the right side. There are now four threads 
left at each side from the leaf; take the first two of these, and make 
seven single chain; make ten with the other two; do the same at 
the right side. Then commence at the top of the scollop again ; left 
side, take two threads, make six single chain ; with the next two 
make four single chain, and three with the next two. Then take 
the next two threads ; hold the first of these in the right hand ; knot 
seven threads twice on to it with the left hand. Repeat for two 
more rows. Then take the next two threads, which will be the out- 
side ones ; hold the second in the right hand, and knot the first 
thread ten times on to it with the left hand, leaving a loop in the 
centre. Take one of these threads ; hold it in the right hand as 
leader, and knot eight threads twice on to it ; with the left hand then 
take up the other thread, which is the last one left; hold it in the 
right hand ; and knot nine threads twice on to it with the left. Then 
leave out the first four threads. Take the next thread, hold it in the 
right hand ; knot each thread twice on to it with the left, taking in 
the first chain. Repeat for two more rows. Miss the first four 
threads ; take the next thread, hold it in the right hand ; knot each 
thread twice on to it with the left, taking in the second single 
chain. Repeat for tvvo more rows. Miss the first four threads ; 
take up the next thread, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread 
twice on to it with the left hand, taking in the thick strand. Repeat 



No. 13. 




31 

for two more rows. Miss the first four threads ; take up the next 
thread, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread twice on to it 
with the left hand. Repeat for two more rows. Leave out 
four threads again, and with the other four make a strand, so :— 
Hold three threads in the right hand and knot the first one eight 
times over it with the left ; then take the first four threads that were 
left out, hold the first in the right hand, knot the three threads each 
twice on to it with the left hand. Repeat for two more rows. This 
forms a small leaf ; do exactly the same with each four threads that 
were left out, there will then be five leaves. Take the first leaf, 
hold three of its threads in the right hand, knot the first thread 
twelve times over them with the left hand, leaving a loop in the 
centre of them. Then take the four threads of the next leaf and the 
four threads of the first ; hold seven of these threads in the left hand 
and knot the first on to them with the left three times, then cut 
aAvay two threads closely at the back of the work ; then knot on 
the same thread until there are twelve knots, leaving a loop in the 
centre. Repeat until all the five leaves are worked in. Do exactly 
the same thing at the right hand side of the scollop, and to finish 
it at the point, take the six threads left, three from each side, let 
tnem cross one over the other, and knot one thread neatly over them 
drawing very tight, and cut off the threads at the back, and fasten 
neatly with a needle and fine thread. 



No. 13. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and four inches long.) 



Pin on the straight lines in the usual way to the cushion ; then 
fasten the threads for working on to the top line. Then loosen the 



32 

second line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and knot each 
thread twice on to it with the left. * Take three threads ; hold two 
in the left hand, and knot the third thread twice over them with the 
right. Repeat to the end of cushion. Leave out the first thread, 
take up the next three threads ; hold the first two in the left hand, 
knot the third thread twice over them with the right. Repeat to the 
end of cushion. Loosen the third line, hold it in the right hand, 
knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Take the first 
four threads ; hold the fourth thread in the left hand, and knot each 
of the three threads twice on to it with the right ; pass the same 
leader to the right hand, knot the threads on with the left, pass the 
leader back to the left hand, knot the threads on with the right, pass 
the leader again to the right hand, knot the threads on with the left. 
This will make four twists. Take the next four threads, make three 
twists in the same way ; take the next four threads, make two twists ; 
-take the next four threads, hold the fourth thread in the left hand, 
and knot all the fifteen threads each twice on to it with the right hand. 
Repeat for another row; leave this for the present. Take the next 
four threads ; hold the fourth thread in the right hand, knot each of 
the three threads twice on to it with the right, then pass the leader 
to the right hand. Repeat to make four twists. Then take four 
threads at the left side, make a twist of three; take the next four 
threads, make a twist of three; take the next four threads at the left 
side, and again make a twist of three ; leave this. Commence at 
the top, miss four threads, take up the next four threads, and with 
them make a twist of two; take the next four threads, make a twist 
of three ; take the next four threads, make a twist of four, then go 
back to the four threads that were missed ; take the first of these, 
hold it in the right hand, knot the fifteen threads each twice on to it 
with the left. Repeat for a second line. Leave out the four threads 



.4 



No. 14. 



iimnt miiim im 



w/ \\u ^ VNi; v^/ v\(/ vm; k\>) vm) \m; \w; \^; 



'V¥VV\fVW^/v\ 



33 

of these at the right side, and with the next four threads make a 
twist of three ; with the next four threads do the same, and the same 
with the next four threads ; then take up one of the centre threads 
of the middle twist, hold it in the ^hand, and knot nine threads 
at the left hand side on to it with the right hapd ; then take up again 
the centre thread of the middle twist, hold it in the right hand, and 
knot each of the nine threads on to it with the left ; then take six 
threads from each side, hold eight in the middle, and ^make a 
Solomon's knot with the two from each side, this forms half the 
diamond, and for the lower half repeat the instructions for the 
above ; reversing them. Repeat to the end of cushion. Then loosen 
the fourth line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice 
on to it with the left. Repeat from *; after which loosen the fifth 
line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it 
with the left. For the fringe take six threads, and with them make 
a running knot. Repeat to the end. 



No. 14. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard long.) 



Pin the straight lines on to the cushion in the usual Way ; then 
fasten on the threads for working to the top line. Then loosen the 
second line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice; on 
to it with the left. Repeat for another row. Take the first two 
threads ; make four single chain. Repeat to the end of cushion. 
Miss the first thread and with the two next threads make two single 
chain. Repeat to the end of cushion. Take the first two threads ; 
make four single chain ; repeat. Miss the first thread, and with 



34 

the next two threads make two chain. Repeat to the end of cushion. 
Take the first two threads ; make four chain. Repeat to end of 
cushion. Miss the first thread with the next two threads ; make 
two chain ; Repeat to end of cushion. Take the first two threads ; 
make four chain. Repeat to end of cushion. Then loosen the 
fourth straight Hne, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread 
twice oyer it ; loosen the next straight line, hold it in the right 
hand, knot each thread twice on to it with the left; and for the 
fringe,, take four threads and with them make a running knot,, 
draw it up to within a quarter of an inch of the last straight line. 
Repeat to end of cushion. Miss the two first threads ; make a 
similar knot with the next four threads. Repeat to end of cushion* 
Make two more rows of knots. 

This makes a handsome fringe, and is especially adapted for silk. 



No. IS. 

(Threads for this Pattern one yard and twenty-seven inches long,) 



Pin the straight lines on to the cushion in the usual way, and 
fasten the threads for working on to the top line. Loosen the sec- 
ond line, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread twice on it. 
Take the first four threads; make two double chain. Repeat to the 
end. Then loosen the third line, hold it in the right hand, knot 
each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Take three threads ; 
hold the first thread in the right hand, knot two on to it with the left 
hand ; take the next three threads, hold the third in the left hand. 



No. 15. 




35 

knot three on to it with the right hand ; take the first thread, hold it 
in the right hand ; knot three threads on to it with the left. Repeat 
at each side, until there are five rows to each leaf; then take the 
six threads, make a Solomon's knot, repeat to the end of cushion. 
Loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread 
twice on to it with the left. Take the first two threads, with them 
make five single chain. Take the next four threads ; hold the fourth 
thread in the left hand, knot the three threads twice over it. Take 
the next four, hold the fourth in the left hand, knot each of the 
nine threads over it with the right ; repeat for two more rows. 
Take the first two of these threads. Make four chain ; make three 
chain with all the other threads ; leave those for the present. Take 
four threads; make a Solomon's knot; take two of these threads, 
make four single chain; do the same with the other two threads. 
Take the first of these four threads ; hold it in the left hand, knot 
eight threads over it with the right hand ; take the next of the four 
threads, hold it in the left hand, knot ten threads over it with the 
right hand; take the first two of these threads, and make six single 
chain ; make three chain with the next two threads ; take the next 
four threads, make a Solomon's knot, the same with tne next four 
threads : leave this for the present. Take up twelve threads, and 
with the last four of them make a Solomon's knot ; make four sin- 
gle chain with each two of these threads ; take the next four of 
them, hold the first in the right hand, knot each of the three threads 
on to it ; with the left take the next four of them, hold the first 
thread in the right hand, knot nine threads on to it with the left ; 
repeat for two more rows ; take the first two of these threads, make 
three single chain. Do the same with the other six threads. Take 
one of the threads from the single chain at the left side, hold it in 
the right hand, knot eight threads on to it with the left ; take up 



96 

the other thread of the single chain, hold it in the right hand, 
knot eight threads on to it with the left, make two Solo- 
mon's knots with those eight threads. Take the fourth thread 
of the second Solomon's knot at the left side of this, hold it in the 
right hand, and knot four threads on to it with the left. Repeat for 
three more rows; take the top thread of these four rows, hold it in 
the left hand, knot the three threads over it ; with the right hand 
then make a Solomon's knot with these four threads, and do the 
same with the other four threads, this forms a small medallion. 
Take four of these threads at the right side, and the four threads 
next to it; make another medallion ; then make two Solomon's 
knots with the eight threads ; then take the remaining four threads 
of the first medallion with the four threads next to it ; make another 
i;nedallion; then make two Solomon's knots with the eight threads; 
then take four threads of these, and four of the second medallion, 
and-make another medallion ; then make two Solomon's knots with 
the eight threads; take up the thread at the side of the third medal- 
lion, hold it in the right hand, knot eight threads on to it with the 
left ; take the next thread, do the same ; take these eight threads 
and with every two of them make three chain. Take up one thread 
of the single chain at the beginning, hold it in the right hand, knot 
eight threads over it ; repeat for two more rows ; take the two first 
threads of these, make six single chain ; take the next four threads, 
hold the first in the right hand, knot three threads over it; loosen 
the fifth straight line, hold it in the right hand, knot each thread 
twice on to it with the left. 

The remainder of the centre patterns can be made by following 
the engraving, as it is almost all a repetition of what has been 
described, and the pattern at the top is repeated at the bottom of 



No. 16. 




37 

the Insertion, only reversing the order of working ; and for fastening 
off the threads , see Instructions No. IV., Insertion Pattern. 



No. 16. 

(Threads for this Pattern two yards long). 



Pin on the threads in the usual way to the cushion, and to make 
the Picot heading. Take two threads, hold the ends of them evenly 
together, then pin them on to the cushion above the first line, and 
make with them two double chain over the pin. Repeat to the end 
of cushion. Then loosen the first line at the right side, hold it in 
the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left; 
then make three rows of Solomon's knots to the end of cushion. 
Then loosen the second line, hold it in the right hand, knot each 
thread twice on to it with the left ; take the first two threads, make 
eight chain ; * take the next twelve threads, make three Solomon's 
knots ; and under these make three more according to the engraving. 
Take the first of these twelve threads, hold it in the right hand, knot 
five threads on to it with the left ; take the last of these twelve 
threads, hold it in the left hand, knot six threads on to it with the 
right ; make five single chain with every two of these threads. Leave 
these for the present. Take up four threads; hold the first in the 
right hand, knot the three threads on to it with the left. Repeat for 
three more rows, to form a leaf. Take the next four threads, hold 
the fourth in the left hand, knot the three threads on with the right 
hand. Repeat for three more rows. Repeat from * to end of 
cushion Take up the second thread ; hold it in the right hand, 



38 

knot six threads on to it with the left hand ; take up the first thread, 
knot six threads on in the same way. Take up the first thread of 
the first leaf, hold it in the left hand, knot six threads on to it with 
the right ; take the next thread of the leaf, do the same. Then take 
the first leader at the left side, hold it in the right hand, and knot the 
first leader at the right side twice on to it ; do the same with the 
other two leaders. Then under the two leaves, make a Solomon's 
knot with four threads, take the fourth thread of the second leaf, 
hold it in the right hand, knot six threads on to it with the left, take 
the remaining thread of the leaf, hold it in the right hand : do the 
same. Then with those sixteen threads make fifteen more Solo- 
mon's knots, making in all sixteen, take up the second leader at the 
left side, hold it in the right hand, knot eight threads on to it with 
the left; take up the first leader, and do the same; take the seventh 
thread, hold it in the left hand, knot the six threads on to it with the 
right ; take up the eighth thread, hold it in the left hand, knot the 
seven threads on to it with the right hand ; take the first two of these 
threads, make ten single chain ; take the next two threads, make five 
single chain ; do the same with the ten remaining threads ; take the 
seventh thread, hold it in the left hand, knot the six threads over it 
with the right ; take up the eighth thread, hold it in the right hand, 
knot five threads on to it with the left. Then with those twelve threads 
make nine Solomon's knots according to the engraving. Take up the 
first of these threads ; hold it in the right hand, knot five threads on 
to it with the left, do the same on the other side, holding the leader in 
the left hand and knotting the threads on with the right. Repeat 
from * to the end of cushion. Then loosen the third straight line, 
hold it in the right hand, knot each thread on to it with the left. 
Then take four threads, make two Solomon's knots. Repeat to end. 
Miss two threads, take the next four threads make two Solomon's 



39 

knots. Repeat to end. Loosen the fourth line, hold it in the right 
hand, knot each thread on to it with the left. 

To Make the Scollop.— *Take the first two threads, make 
six single chain ; take the next two threads, make four single chain ; 
make two single chain with the next ; take up two threads, hold 
the second in the left hand, knot seven threads over it with the 
right. Repeat for another row. Take up eight threads, make five 
chain with the last two of them; make four chain with the next, and 
two chain with the next ; take up the first of these eight threads ; 
hold it in the right hand, knot seven threads on to it with the left. 
Repeat for another row. Then with twelve of those threads make 
nine Solomon's knots according to the engraving. Then take up 
the first thread; hold it in the right hand; knot seven threads on to 
it with the left. Repeat for another row. Take the last thread ; 
hold it in the left hand; knot seven threads on to it with the right. 
Repeat for another row. Then take the leader from the other side, 
and knot it twice on to this leader; then take the first of these 
threads, make three single chain, do the same with the next six 
threads ; then miss the first thread ; take the two next threads, and 
make three chain ; do the same to the next two threads, and the 
same to the following two threads ; then make six single chain with 
every two of the remaining eight threads ; this forms a diamond. 

Repeat from * until there are ten diamonds, according to the 
engraving, to form the scollop. 



40 

No. 17. 

(MATERIALS.— A weightedCushion with German pins, and linen thread 

or silk.) 



The lace is made by knotting the threads together, the rule to be 
observed being to take one thread as a leader, hold it firmly, and 
knot each single thread twice on to it, always keeping the leader at 
the top. When the leaf is worked from right to left, the leader is 
held in the left hand, and when the leaf is worked from left to right, 
the leader is held in the right hand. 

Cut the cross lines the length of the lace required, fasten them on 
the cushion with the largest pins ; the threads for this pattern are to 
be one yard four inches long. 

INSTRU-CTIONS. 

Fasten the threads on as follows : Pass the two ends of_ each 
thread under the first line, pointing them up, then draw them back 
through the loop. Then put in a pin between every four threads. 
Loosen the second line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, 
and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. 

First line of open work : Take the first four threads, hold three in 
the left hand, and knot the fourth thread three times over them with 
the right hand ; so on to the end. Then take two threads from 
each, hold three in the right hand and knot the fourth three times 
over them with the left hand. Then loosen the third line, hold it in 
the right hand and knot each thread twice on to it. 

To make the first leaf: Take eight threads, hold the eighth one in 
the left hand as leader, knot each of the seven threads twice on to it 



No. 17. 




41 



with the right hand, always keeping the leader at the top and the 
threads underneath. Then the eighth again, hold it in the left 
hand and knot the seven threads twice on to it with the right ; the 
third line of the leaf is made in the same way, repeat for the second 
and third leaf. Fourth leaf : hold the thread at the left side in the 
right hand as leader, and knot the threads on to it with the left 
hand. Then take the fourth line and knot each thread twice on to it 
in the same way; second line of open work same as the] first, then 
take the fifth line and knot each thread twice on to it. 

First leaf of scollop : take eight threads, hold the eighth one in 
the left hand as leader, and make the leaf same as the first one in the 
insertion. 

When this leaf is finished, pass the leader to the right hand and 
make a second leaf. Third leaf: hold the leader 'in the right hand 
and knot on the threads with the left. Fourth leaf: pass the leader 
of the third leaf to the left hand, and knot on the threads with the 
right hand. When this leaf is finished, knot the leader twice on to 
the leader of the second leaf. The remainder of the scollop is 
made in the same way, as may be seen by the engraving. 



From Editorial page, 



Boston Evening Transcript^ Nov. lo, 1877. 
LACE MAKING. 



ANEW INDUSTRY — " IMPERIAL LACE BOOK ''--TO THE LADIES 

OF AMERICA. 



(Corres2)ondence nf the Transcript.) 

NEW YORK, NOV. 13, 1S7T. 

It is an important thing to introducce a genteel industry— one that would have the ad- 
vantages of giving occupation, and at the same time some little remuneration. There 
are very few of them that, for instance, the daughter of a tolerably genteel American 
family can turn a hand to. A man does not care to see a square bundle come from the 
merchant tailor's, and very few American families, would like to see an armful of panta- 
loons or of coats or vests taken out of the house en route to " the shop." And yet many 
so-called genteel families ought to have something to turn a hand to. Years ago, a writer 
in the Atlantic Monthly, had an article headed, " A Plea for the Afternoon," which was 
in favor of giving occupation to men advanced in life. He might now give us a plea for 
the forenoon, and for the young and old. I believe the hundred and one genteel indus- 
tries of fFrance, caused the stockings and crocks to be filled with napoleons that turned 
out in such abundance to rid the polite nation of the presence of the sturdy and persistant 
Prussian. The titled ladies in Ireland have taught girls the art of lace-making, and 
you may go into the little shop of the Quaker Carr in Dublin, to find hand made lace, 
richly yellow, which was made by the girls of Lismore and Cappoquin, in Waterford 
County. It was a great boon to those girls to place that " bobbin " art at their fingers" 
points. The Children's Aid Society did and do a great educational service in giving plants 
to the scholars of their schools. At a given time they bring the plants back, and rewards 
of merit for the care of the plants, as one or the other may have succeeded, are given to 
the children. All these incentives and teachings are good. 

I have before me a little lace-book issued by Barbour Brothers, 134 Church Street, New 
York, and 153 Franklin street, Boston, and 119 Pine Street, San Francisco. It has 
forty-one pages and is illustrated, and has descriptive letterpress to enable one to 
make "Macramc Lace." In the preface we are told that the manufacture 
of this lace is a renewal of a pleasant employment, well known in the 
sixteenth century, and that now it Is amusing the ladles of the European 
Courts. The Messrs. Barbour claim the "honor and the privilege" of intro- 
ducing it to American laches. Inasmuch as they issue this tasty little volume for free 
distribution, " with their compliments to the ladies of America," surely they may be al- 
lowed the honor and glory of the expenditure, which must have been considerable. 
But I might as well stop. No writing of mine could take the place of the volume, and 
I will simply suggest to my fair reader that she had better send a note to Messrs. 
Barbour Brothers, requesting a copy of the "Imperial Lace Book." The generous gen- 
tlemen who publish this volume do not even suggest that those wishing it need take the 
precaution of sendiijg stamps for return postage. Certainly, this offering at the 
shrine of the beautiful and the useful, as knotted lace is, is an elegant as well as a 
gene.'ous one. 

S. J. A. 




BARBOUR BROTHERS, 

134 CKvircJi Street, 

NEW YORK. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Macrame Lace Threads in all Sizes and Numbers, 
Shoe Threads, 

Wax Machine Threads, 

Sewing Machine Threads, 
Glove Threads. Carpet Threads, 

Bookbinder's Threads, Saddlers' Threads, 

Gilling Threads, 

Seine Threads, 

Sail Twine. 

Linen Yarns. 



M;»UTIK, Printer, •IS Muirny StiPtt, N. Y. 






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